Community Cafe in a Renovated Sento - Rébon Kaisaiyu in Uguisudani

Community Cafe in a Renovated Sento - Rébon Kaisaiyu in Uguisudani
A quiet Taito-ku neighborhood carries on nearly 100 years of culture at rébon Kaisaiyu, a public bathhouse turned roastery-cafe. History that could have been lost is now a place to enjoy original coffee, experience stunning architecture, and chat with community members from near and far.
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Sydney Seekford
Gourmet Creator
American living in Japan since 2022. Food writer and gourmet content creator for Japan’s most well known food media. Founder of menu translation and language support service MENUWIZ. Work history includes copywriting for booking platforms, video and media production and appearances, and consulting in F&B for household brands. Passionate about regional revitalization and slow tourism with a focus on local food culture.

The Revival of Sento Culture

Tokyo has a way of bringing things full circle. Trends find their way back every 20 years or so. After decades of tepid waiting, it seems that hot water is cool again. The city of Tokyo is even hosting a sento promotion project to encourage foreign visitors to try out Japan’s old-fashioned public bathing facilities.

Pushes for more tattoo-friendly spas and general education on history and etiquette are making it easier for guests to appreciate the unique ambiance a sento has to offer. It’s just one part of the trend that has seen baths drained for DJ parties, steam-tinted Mt.Fuji paintings preserved in galleries, and fading practices revived with a flood of young people into saunas and super sento.
Community Cafe in a Renovated Sento - Rébon Kaisaiyu in Uguisudani
Located in a renovated bathhouse from 1928, rébon Kaisaiyu is a cafe and workspace that preserves the charms of sento culture in its own way. The sense of community fostered by communal bathing is reimagined – reborn, if you will – in a space that embodies the quintessential appeals of Japan. Part office, part cafe, part historical preservation, rébon transforms an unremarkable Taito-ward street into a gathering place for people from all walks of life, just like it did in its former life as a sento.

History of rébon Kaisaiyu Sento 

 History of rébon Kaisaiyu Sento 
Originally constructed in 1928 and still called Kaisaiyu, the sento operated as a public bath for the people of Uguisudani in Taito-ku until 2016. At that time, the owner made a decision that despite closing the baths, the building would stay as a piece of local memory and a representative part of the neighborhood.
Community Cafe in a Renovated Sento - Rébon Kaisaiyu in Uguisudani
That wish was granted by Yamamura, a construction and architectural firm from Yamagata that is now active nationwide. The firm, originally a timber company, specializes in using natural materials and infusing spaces with a feeling of humanity – a perfect match to renovate rébon into its current state.
Community Cafe in a Renovated Sento - Rébon Kaisaiyu in Uguisudani
Yamamura also hosts its office in the former bath space of rébon. Visiting, guests can watch the team at work against the mural of Mt. Fuji. Tiny models of future buildings are softly lit by the sunlight coming in from high windows that once released steam, inspiring busy cafe goers to work away on their own project while surrounded by fellows. Interestingly, a place that was once used to relax has become a community space where people work towards their dreams.

Cafe menu

Community Cafe in a Renovated Sento - Rébon Kaisaiyu in Uguisudani
rébon’s main room is divided into two portions, one with the counter, perfect for sipping a quick cup of coffee, and the other with several tables and a library against the back wall. Light lunches and seasonal sweets are available to go with visitors’ drinks, though many come for a hot cup of single origin coffee. Other popular menu items include ice cream and coffee pairings and comforting lattes.
Community Cafe in a Renovated Sento - Rébon Kaisaiyu in Uguisudani
The matcha latte in particular, served iced or hot, uses a delicious variety from Fukuoka with an excellent balance between bitter and sweet. Instead of defaulting to the popular Uji matcha, rébon Kaisaiyu staff have selected Fukuoka Yame-cha, grown in an area with direct roots to the introduction of tea plants from China.
Community Cafe in a Renovated Sento - Rébon Kaisaiyu in Uguisudani
One of the coffee pairings features Shounan Gold brand mandarin orange ice cream with Nicaraguan coffee. This unique flavor pairing, featuring only the natural essence of oranges and fruityness locked in the coffee beans, is refreshing enough for summer and bright enough to warm up a winter afternoon. The secret to enjoying this “mariage” of coffee and ice cream is to try a sip of coffee while the gelato is still melting on your tongue. The coffee beans are carefully roasted in house to create the best partners for their specialty ice creams.

The space

Community Cafe in a Renovated Sento - Rébon Kaisaiyu in Uguisudani
Although the space has been updated some, many of the decorative accents are left over from when this was a bathhouse. The baskets guests put their bags in were used to hold personal items while visitors bathed. The opaque, mirrored wall in the center, now dividing the two cafe rooms, once divided the baths between men and women.

 In the center, near the sliding entrance doors, a zabuton cushion on a raised platform marks where staff would have sat to collect coins on each guest’s way towards the baths. The remaining bandai too, where the owner used to sit, is still in good condition. If you ask the staff, they’ll let you take a commemorative photo while sitting on it. High above, a clock with the baths’ original name ticks away the hours.
Community Cafe in a Renovated Sento - Rébon Kaisaiyu in Uguisudani
Many of the left over features, including the shoe locker, called a kutsubako, are still used today. Guests are asked to remove their shoes before entering the cafe (so it might be a good idea to wear socks) and store them in one of the numbered cubbies. The wooden plaque marking your locker number is an iconic piece of sento imagery, one that has even found its way into contemporary motifs.
Community Cafe in a Renovated Sento - Rébon Kaisaiyu in Uguisudani
Looking up, visitors will notice that the high ceilings, used to trap and disperse steam from the baths, are still intact. The natural wood and ventilation create an airy space that is well lit throughout the day. Features like original fixtures and old scales, even the peeling bathhouse mural, have been left in place. In the adjoining room, once the men’s changing room, a huge roaster awaits the next batch of beans. This is obviously a modern addition, but its retro design fits right in.

Legacy and Future

Community Cafe in a Renovated Sento - Rébon Kaisaiyu in Uguisudani
For visitors who have never experienced a sento, much less one with this much history, enjoying a break among the accents of old architecture serves as a first step. These public baths are places where would-be-strangers of all ages and backgrounds come together. For generations of Japanese people, sento were used by every person, making them a great equalizing place. While the role of sento in their neighborhoods is shifting, their meaning remains.

The team behind rébon Kaisaiyu hope that through this space, people can feel the bonds of community this particular bathhouse nurtured over its decades of operation. In every corner, you can feel that though the baths may be gone, the warmth remains. Having a coffee at rébon might be just a splash of sento culture, but spending an hour in this beautiful space is enough to make anyone feel like a part of its story.
Community Cafe in a Renovated Sento - Rébon Kaisaiyu in Uguisudani
rébon Kaisaiyu
Access  5 minutes from Hibiya-line Iriya station
          12 minutes from Yamanote-line Uguisudani station
Address 2-17-11 Shitaya, Taito-ku, Tokyo
Hours:  10:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m. 
Closed  Irregular holidays. Please check social media for the latest information.

Other Tokyo Eateries 

In Tokyo, traditional buildings find new life as elegant restaurants that blend history with modern sensibility. Savor creative cuisine in spaces that reflect the enduring beauty of Japan’s heritage.

Yakiniku Tattontei

Like rébon, Yakiniku Tattontei found its home in a totally unrelated space. The building, built in the mid-Showa era as Saima Shouten (Saima Shop) is now a new-but-old-fashioned yakiniku restaurant. The meat is simple and classic: fresh beef and offal in an addictive brown marinade that guests can grill to their preferred doneness. Enjoyed with some grilled vegetables and stiff drinks, this casual spot carries forward the flavors of the past. It’s a great space to rub elbows with locals while enjoying a taste of downtown culture in Asakusabashi.
Community Cafe in a Renovated Sento - Rébon Kaisaiyu in Uguisudani

Yakiniku Tattontei

Open: Dinner 5:00 pm - 11:00 pm (L.O. 10:30 pm)
Closed: None
Average price: [Dinner] 6,000 JPY
Access: 1-minute walk from the East Exit of JR Asakusabashi Station. 1-minute walk from Subway Asakusabashi Station.
Address: 1-9-7, Asakusabashi, Taito-ku, Tokyo Map
More Details   Reservation   

Kappou Sanchou

Since 1951, Ryotei Sanchou has served guests the definition of classical Japanese cuisine. Today, the respected name of Sanchou is tied to Kappou Sanchou in Shinsen, just outside of Shibuya station, in an old-fashioned space that could easily be mistaken for a high-end ryokan. Kappou, the slightly less formal sibling of kaiseki dining, leaves room for inspiration and novelty while protecting the tradition of washoku. In the same way, Kappou Sanchou invites guests to a mature dining space, where they can relish in the Japan of old, just steps from modern day Tokyo.
Community Cafe in a Renovated Sento - Rébon Kaisaiyu in Uguisudani

Kappou Sanchou

Open: [Weekdays, Saturday] 5:00 pm - 11:30 pm (L.O. 10:30 pm) *Private room charge: 4,000 JPY to 14,000 JPY + an optional 10% service charge. You'll be charged the prices of pre-ordered meals for any changes made on the day.
Closed: Sunday, National Holidays
Average price: [Dinner] 15,000 JPY
Access: 9 minutes walk from JR Shibuya Station, or 5 minutes from Shinsen Station on Inokashira Line
Address: 6-1, Maruyama-cho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo Map
More Details   Reservation   

aux

A mishmash of cultures, ideas, and raw materials, aux in Yoyogi Hachiman was recently renovated and reopened under chef Yu Tokairin. Aux calls itself an izakaya, but embraces the free-flow of ideas experienced in Canada and Tokyo. Its space was DIY-ed from the shell of a former glass factory, full of modern industrial design and sleek touches. The menu is a satisfying display of the chef’s ability to make the old new. Classics like karaage are given a signature spin, while dining preferences are accounted for with vegan and gluten-free menu items. 
Community Cafe in a Renovated Sento - Rébon Kaisaiyu in Uguisudani

aux

Open: [Weekdays] Tea time & Lunch 11:00 am - 5:00 pm, [Weekdays, Saturday, Sunday, National Holidays] Dinner 5:00 pm - 12:00 am (Food L.O. 10:30 pm / Drink L.O. 10:30 pm), [Saturday, Sunday, National Holidays] Breakfast 7:00 am - 11:00 am / Branch 8:00 am - 5:00 pm 
Closed: Irregular
Average price: [Dinner] 5,000 JPY / [Lunch] 2,000 JPY
Access: 5-minute walk from Yoyogi-Hachiman Station on Odakyu Line and Yoyogi-Koen Station on  Tokyo Metro Chiyoda Line
Address: 2F, NYCmotoyoyogi, 5-2, Motoyoyogi-cho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo Map
More Details   Reservation   

KUFUKU ±

Kufuku is a French restaurant located in an old house. It’s hidden among the noisy, fandom-filled streets of Akihabara. The shell is that of a 75-year old kominka built by a master carpenter with long-practiced techniques. Unexpected contemporary art, the subtle beauty of traditional joinery, and a distinct sense of the passage of time underscore the emphasis on natural cuisine and fermentation found across Kufuku’s course menus.
Community Cafe in a Renovated Sento - Rébon Kaisaiyu in Uguisudani
KUFUKU ±
Open
:  [Wednesday]Dinner 5:30 pm - 10:00 pm (Food L.O. 8:00 pm / Drink L.O. 9:30 pm), [Thursday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday]Lunch 11:30 am - 2:30 pm (L.O. 1:00 pm)/Dinner 5:30 pm - 10:00 pm (Food L.O. 8:00 pm / Drink L.O. 9:30 pm)
Closed: Mondays and Tuesdays. Additionally, for the time being, lunch service will only be available on Thursdays, Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays.
Access: 2-minute walk from Suehirocho Station and a 5-minute walk from Akihabara Station.
132 meters from Suehirocho.
Address: 4-11-8 Sotokanda, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo

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